How long does a typical custom deck build take from start to finish?

A straightforward deck project usually takes one to two weeks of on-site work once permits are approved, though permitting itself can add several weeks depending on the scope and whether shoreline review applies. Weather can also push the timeline during Skagit County's wetter months. We'll give you a realistic schedule during the site visit rather than a generic estimate.

What should I ask a contractor before hiring them to build a deck near the water?

Ask whether they're licensed and bonded in Washington, whether they carry liability insurance, and specifically what fastener and hardware grade they use for coastal exposure. It's also worth asking how they handle ledger board flashing and footing drainage, since those two details cause most of the hidden failures we see on older decks in this area.

Is composite decking actually worth the higher upfront cost compared to wood?

It depends on how much maintenance you're willing to do. Composite and PVC decking cost more initially but resist moisture absorption and don't need periodic sealing, which matters in a climate where wood decking needs consistent upkeep to avoid moss and cupping. Wood costs less upfront and can look great, but only if you keep up with sealing on schedule.

What's the difference between hidden fastener systems and face-screwed decking?

Hidden fastener systems clip decking boards from the side, leaving no screw heads on the walking surface, which reduces the spots where water and debris can collect and cause staining. Face-screwed decking is simpler and often less expensive to install but leaves fastener heads exposed, so using stainless or coated screws matters more for long-term appearance and corrosion resistance.

Does March Point's location near the bay actually make a difference for deck materials, or is that overstated?

It makes a real difference. Airborne salt from Fidalgo Bay and Padilla Bay accelerates corrosion on standard hardware faster than it would inland, and the sustained rain and humidity here keep wood surfaces damp longer, which feeds moss growth. Building with corrosion-resistant fasteners and moisture-tolerant framing isn't optional upgrade talk out here — it's what keeps a deck from needing early repairs.

Custom Decks in March Point, WA — Built for Bay Weather

Decking Built for March Point's Marine Climate

March Point sits out on the water, wrapped by Fidalgo Bay and Padilla Bay, which means homes here take a different kind of weathering than a deck ten miles inland in Mount Vernon or Burlington. Salt-laden air moves through the area most of the year, driving rain comes in sideways off the water during fall and winter storms, and the long, damp Skagit County shoulder seasons keep wood and composite surfaces wet longer than homeowners expect. A deck built to a generic spec sheet often looks fine for the first year or two and then starts showing corrosion streaks, soft spots, or a green moss film that never fully dries out. Building correctly for March Point means treating the salt air, the rain exposure, and the moss season as design inputs from the very first conversation, not problems to deal with later.

What Salt Air and Standing Moisture Actually Do to a Deck

Salt air is corrosive to exposed metal, and it doesn't take a waterfront lot for it to matter — March Point's proximity to open bay water means airborne salt reaches decks set back well from the shoreline too. Left unaddressed, it accelerates rust on fasteners, connectors, and railing hardware, which is usually the first visible failure point on an otherwise sound deck. Combine that with our region's rain pattern — long stretches of steady, low-intensity rain rather than short downpours — and you get wood surfaces and framing members that stay damp for days at a time. That sustained moisture is what feeds moss and mildew growth on horizontal surfaces and, over years, softens end grain and fastener pockets where water collects and doesn't drain.

Where Problems Usually Start

In our experience working on decks around Anacortes and the surrounding Skagit County waterfront, failures rarely start in the middle of a deck board. They start at the edges: ledger board connections against the house, stair stringers where they meet grade, fastener heads that trap water, and any spot where two pieces of material sit flush against each other without a way for moisture to escape. A correct build accounts for every one of those details up front.

Choosing Decking Material for a March Point Property

There's no single "right" decking material for every house — it depends on your budget, how much upkeep you want to do, and how close you are to the water. What matters is picking a material honestly, understanding its trade-offs, and installing it correctly for our climate rather than assuming any product is maintenance-free.

Material	Moisture Behavior Here	Maintenance	Typical Lifespan
Pressure-treated wood	Absorbs and releases moisture readily; needs a chance to dry between rain events	Annual cleaning, periodic sealing/staining	15–20 years with upkeep
Cedar	Naturally moisture- and insect-resistant, but still needs airflow underneath to avoid cupping	Cleaning plus sealing every 1–2 years to hold color and resist moss	15–25 years with upkeep
Composite (capped)	Resists moisture absorption well; surface doesn't swell or splinter	Periodic washing to keep moss and pollen film from building up	25–30 years, manufacturer-warrantied
PVC decking	Fully moisture-resistant surface; least susceptible to rot	Occasional washing	25+ years, manufacturer-warrantied

Composite and PVC decking have become popular for waterfront and near-waterfront lots specifically because they don't absorb the constant moisture the way wood does — that's less about looks and more about not fighting the climate every season. That said, plenty of homeowners still prefer real wood for the look and are willing to keep up with sealing on a schedule. Either choice can hold up here as long as the framing underneath, the fasteners, and the airflow are done right — the decking surface is only part of the equation.

Hardware and Fasteners Matter as Much as the Boards

This is where a lot of decks near the water actually fail first, and it's the detail that's easiest for a homeowner to overlook when comparing bids. Standard electro-galvanized screws and brackets corrode faster in salt air, and once a fastener starts rusting it can stain the surrounding decking and weaken its grip. On a March Point build we spec stainless steel or heavy hot-dip galvanized fasteners and structural connectors rated for coastal exposure, and we match screws to the decking material's own hardware recommendations so warranties stay intact.

Framing, Footings, and Structure

The decking surface gets all the attention, but the framing underneath is what determines whether the deck is still solid in fifteen years. In our clay-heavy, often waterlogged Skagit County soils, footing depth and drainage around posts matter more than they would in a drier climate. We set footings below frost depth per Anacortes building code, and we grade and drain around post bases so they aren't sitting in standing water after a wet week. Joist spacing gets tightened up for composite and PVC decking, since those materials can have different span requirements than wood, and we always leave a gap between the deck framing and the house siding so water sheds away from the wall rather than wicking into it.

Ledger Board Attachment

The ledger — where the deck attaches to the house — is the single most common source of hidden rot on older decks in our area, because it's the hardest spot for water to escape once it gets behind the board. We flash it properly, use approved structural fasteners, and make sure there's a drainage gap so water sheds instead of collecting against the house framing.

Railings and Above-Deck Hardware

Railings take the brunt of salt air exposure because they're fully vertical and fully exposed on both sides. Wood railings need the same sealing schedule as wood decking, aluminum and composite railing systems hold up with less upkeep, and any cable or metal baluster system should use marine-grade or stainless hardware — standard-grade hardware left up here will show surface rust within a season or two. Post connections get the same corrosion-resistant fastener treatment as the framing below.

How We Build a Deck in March Point

Site visit and assessment — we look at drainage, sun and wind exposure, proximity to the water, and how the deck ties into the house before we talk materials.
Design and material selection — we walk through the trade-offs above so you're choosing decking, railing, and finish based on how you actually want to maintain it, not just how it looks in a sample.
Permitting — most new decks and many replacements in the City of Anacortes and unincorporated Skagit County require a building permit; we handle that paperwork so it's not on you.
Framing and structure — footings, ledger attachment, joist layout, and corrosion-resistant hardware, inspected before decking goes down.
Decking, railing, and finish — installed with attention to fastener spacing, drainage gaps, and manufacturer specs for whatever material you've chosen.
Final walkthrough — we go over basic care for your specific decking material so you know what upkeep to expect and when.

Living With a Deck Through Moss Season

Every deck in this region, regardless of material, needs some seasonal attention to stay ahead of moss and mildew. The good news is that most of it is straightforward if you stay on top of it rather than letting a season slide.

Sweep leaves and debris off the deck regularly in fall — trapped organic matter holds moisture and feeds moss growth
Rinse or wash the surface a few times a year to break up early moss and pollen film before it takes hold
Check that gaps between boards are clear so water can drain through rather than pooling on the surface
Inspect fasteners and railing hardware annually for rust streaks, which often show up before the fastener itself fails
Re-seal or re-stain wood decking on the schedule recommended for the product — skipping a cycle in our climate shortens the timeline noticeably
Keep nearby shrubs and trees trimmed back so sun and airflow can reach the deck surface and help it dry between rains

Permits and Setbacks Around March Point

Because March Point sits near shoreline areas of Fidalgo Bay and Padilla Bay, some deck projects here can fall under shoreline setback or critical area review in addition to standard building permits, depending on exactly where the property sits. We check this during the site visit rather than assuming a standard residential permit covers everything — it's a step that's easy for an out-of-area contractor to miss, and getting it wrong can mean a stop-work order mid-project.

Why Hire a Crew That Already Works This Area

A deck contractor who mostly works inland jobs will design and fasten a deck the same way regardless of where it sits, because that's what their normal jobs call for. Working regularly around Anacortes and the March Point waterfront means we default to corrosion-resistant hardware, proper drainage detailing, and moisture-tolerant framing choices without having to be asked — because we've seen what standard-spec decks look like out here after a few winters. That familiarity with the specific way salt air, driving rain, and moss season wear on a structure is the difference between a deck that needs real attention at year five and one that's still solid at year twenty.

If you're planning a new deck or need to replace one that's showing its age, we're happy to come take a look and talk through what makes sense for your property. Fill out the form below for a free, no-pressure estimate — there's no obligation, just an honest read on what your deck needs.