Anacortes Siding Replacement
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March Point Siding Installation — Anacortes Local Crew

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Siding Installation Built for March Point's Exposure

March Point sits out on the water between Fidalgo Bay and Padilla Bay, which means homes here take a different kind of weather than houses tucked a few miles inland in Anacortes proper. Wind comes off the water with little to slow it down, salt air settles on every exterior surface, and the long gray stretch of a Skagit County winter keeps siding damp for weeks at a time. A siding installation out here isn't a cosmetic upgrade — it's the difference between a wall system that sheds water and salt for decades and one that starts failing at the seams within a few years.

We install James Hardie fiber cement exclusively, and on March Point specifically, we've had to get particular about details that wouldn't matter as much on a more sheltered lot: fastener spacing on exposed elevations, how flashing ties into window and door openings, and how much clearance siding gets from grade and roof lines where moss and standing moisture like to collect. This page walks through what correct installation actually involves here, and why it's worth hiring a crew that already understands this stretch of Anacortes.

What Living on the Water Does to a House

Salt Air and Corrosion

Salt-laden air is persistent in a way that's easy to underestimate. It doesn't just affect paint color over time — it accelerates corrosion on anything metal: nails, flashing, hose bibs, light fixtures mounted to the wall. Siding installed with the wrong fasteners, or fasteners left exposed instead of properly set and sealed, will show rust streaks and loosen faster on a March Point home than almost anywhere else in Skagit County. This is one reason fastener selection and installation technique matter more here than the marketing on any siding product's box.

Wind-Driven Rain

Rain that falls straight down is a much easier problem to manage than rain that's being pushed sideways into a wall. March Point's open exposure means driving rain gets forced up under laps, into gaps around trim, and into any seam that wasn't sealed or lapped correctly. Siding that looks fine on a calm day can still be failing behind the surface if the water-resistive barrier and flashing details weren't done right during installation.

Moss and Algae Season

Western Washington's moss season runs long, and shaded, north-facing walls near the water hold moisture even longer than similar walls inland. Moss and algae growth on siding isn't just an appearance issue — sustained dampness under organic growth is exactly the condition that rots wood-based siding and degrades paint film. Fiber cement resists this kind of moisture damage far better than wood or wood-composite products, but even Hardie siding needs the right clearance and drainage plane behind it to avoid trapping moisture against the wall.

Why Installation Quality Matters as Much as the Material

The best siding material on the market will still fail early if it's installed poorly. On a house exposed the way March Point homes are, the margin for error is smaller. A few details we treat as non-negotiable:

Moisture Management Behind the Cladding

Every installation starts with the water-resistive barrier and drainage plane, not the siding itself. Water that gets past the cladding needs a way to drain and dry out before it reaches sheathing or framing. Skipping or shortcutting this layer is the single most common cause of hidden rot behind siding that looks perfectly good from the street.

Flashing at Every Penetration

Windows, doors, hose bibs, vents, and deck ledgers are all places water can get behind siding if flashing isn't installed correctly and lapped in the right order — top piece over the one below it, every time. On an exposed site like March Point, we treat flashing details as the part of the job that determines whether the siding lasts 30 years or 10.

Fastening to Manufacturer Spec

James Hardie publishes specific fastener type, spacing, and placement requirements for each product line and each exposure category. Following that spec — rather than a generic "close enough" approach — is what keeps panels secure in wind and prevents the kind of nail popping and edge lifting that shows up first on exposed elevations.

Why We Install Only James Hardie Fiber Cement

We made the decision years ago to install James Hardie fiber cement exclusively, and we don't deviate from that for homes on March Point or anywhere else we work. Fiber cement is non-combustible, doesn't rot or feed insects the way wood-based products can, and holds its factory-applied ColorPlus finish far longer than field-painted alternatives — which matters in an area where salt air and UV exposure both work against paint film. Hardie's HZ5 product line in particular is engineered for harsher climate zones, which is a better match for an exposed, waterfront-adjacent site than a general-purpose siding product.

We also value that Hardie backs its ColorPlus finish and substrate with a strong transferable warranty, which carries real weight for homeowners who may sell in the years after installation. Other products on the market — vinyl, LP SmartSide, primed wood — all have legitimate uses and reasonable price points, but we've chosen not to install them because we've standardized on one system we can install to spec, warranty with confidence, and stand behind fully.

What a Correct Siding Installation Involves, Step by Step

  1. Inspection and tear-off: Remove existing siding and inspect sheathing for hidden rot or moisture damage, especially around window openings and low wall sections near grade.
  2. Sheathing repair: Replace any compromised sheathing before anything else goes back on the wall — covering a problem doesn't fix it.
  3. Water-resistive barrier: Install house wrap or building paper correctly lapped, shingle-style, so water is always directed outward and down.
  4. Flashing: Flash all penetrations and openings in the correct sequence before siding installation begins.
  5. Furring or drainage plane: Where called for, create a gap behind the siding so bulk water can drain and the wall assembly can dry.
  6. Hardie panel installation: Install to manufacturer fastener spacing and clearance requirements, keeping proper gaps from roofing, decks, and grade.
  7. Caulking and touch-up: Seal joints per Hardie's specifications and touch up cut edges with matching ColorPlus touch-up product.
  8. Final walkthrough: Check reveals, fastener lines, and trim details before calling the job complete.

Cost Factors for Siding Installation on March Point Homes

Every home is different, but these are the factors that most often move the price of a siding installation on a site like this one:

FactorWhy It Matters on March PointWhat This Affects
Existing wall conditionWind-driven rain and moss exposure increase the odds of hidden sheathing damageRepair scope discovered during tear-off
Wall exposure and elevationWaterfront-facing walls need stricter fastening and flashing attentionLabor time per elevation
Siding profile chosenLap, shingle, and panel styles install at different rates and price pointsMaterial and labor cost
Trim and detail workWindows, corners, and penetrations all need individual flashing attentionTime and material for trim package
Access and stagingSite layout and driveway access affect how efficiently material and equipment moveProject timeline

Signs a March Point Home May Need New Siding Soon

  • Persistent moss or algae staining that returns shortly after cleaning
  • Soft or spongy spots when you press on the siding, especially near the bottom courses
  • Paint that's peeling or bubbling rather than just fading
  • Visible gaps, warping, or separation at seams and corners
  • Rust streaking below nail heads or fasteners
  • Rising energy bills that suggest the wall assembly is no longer holding its line against outside air and moisture

Our Process, From First Call to Final Walkthrough

We start with an on-site assessment, not a phone estimate — on an exposed site like March Point, we want to see wall condition, sun and wind exposure on each elevation, and any existing moisture issues before quoting the job. From there we give a written estimate that spells out product, prep work, and any repairs the inspection turned up. Once scheduled, we handle tear-off, sheathing repair, moisture barrier and flashing work, and Hardie installation as one continuous process rather than handing pieces off between subcontractors, which keeps the details consistent from the first panel to the last.

Why a Crew That Already Works March Point Matters

Every part of Skagit County gets rain, but not every part gets the specific combination of wind, salt air, and sustained dampness that a peninsula site like March Point deals with. A crew that's worked this area before knows which elevations tend to take the worst of the weather, where moss problems tend to concentrate, and how much clearance and drainage detail actually holds up here versus what's technically code-minimum. That experience shows up in fewer callbacks and a siding job that's still doing its job fifteen or twenty years out, not just at the final walkthrough.

If you're weighing a siding replacement on March Point, we're happy to take a look and give you a straight, no-pressure estimate — what your walls actually need, what it will cost, and why. There's a form below to get that conversation started.

FAQ

Frequently asked questions

How long does a full siding replacement usually take on an average-sized house?

Most single-family homes take one to two weeks from tear-off to final touch-up, depending on square footage, trim detail, and how much sheathing repair is needed. Weather can extend that timeline, especially during Skagit County's wetter months. We'll give you a realistic schedule as part of the written estimate, not a rushed guess.

What should I ask a contractor before hiring them for siding work?

Ask what siding system they install and why, whether they subcontract the work or use their own crew, and how they handle moisture barrier and flashing details specifically — not just "what siding do you use." Also ask for their approach if they find hidden rot during tear-off, since that's common on older homes near the water. A contractor who can answer these clearly, without hedging, is usually one who's done the work correctly before.

Why doesn't your company install vinyl or LP SmartSide siding?

We standardized on James Hardie fiber cement because it's non-combustible, holds its factory finish longer under UV and salt exposure, and doesn't carry the moisture-related maintenance concerns that wood-based composite products can have. Vinyl and LP SmartSide are legitimate products with their own use cases, but we chose to install and warranty one system we can stand behind fully rather than offer several we install less often.

What's the difference between HardiePlank lap siding and HardieShingle, and which fits a March Point home better?

HardiePlank is a horizontal lap profile and is the most common choice for full-house siding replacement, offering a clean, traditional look with strong wind and water performance. HardieShingle gives a shingled, textured appearance and is often used as an accent on gables or specific elevations rather than the whole house. Either can be specified in Hardie's HZ5 line for added performance in higher-exposure climate zones, which is generally the right call for a waterfront-adjacent site like March Point.

Does March Point's exposure to wind off the bay change how siding should actually be installed?

Yes — elevations facing open water typically need tighter attention to fastener spacing, sealant at joints, and flashing laps than a sheltered wall would require to code minimum. We treat those exposed elevations as the standard for the whole house rather than installing to a lower spec on the sheltered sides. It costs a bit more attention during installation, but it's cheaper than repairs five years down the road.

Free, no-pressure estimate

Get expert help in Anacortes.

Have questions about your siding project? Our local crew serves Anacortes and all of Skagit County — call or request a free on-site estimate.

360-227-6775

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