What's the real difference between composite decking and pressure-treated wood decking?

Composite decking is made from a wood-fiber and polymer blend, often with a protective cap layer, so it doesn't absorb water the way solid wood does and won't need annual sanding or staining. Pressure-treated wood costs less upfront but requires ongoing sealing and is more prone to warping, splintering, and moss growth in a wet climate. Over a 15-20 year span, composite usually costs less in total maintenance even though the initial material price is higher.

What should I ask a contractor before hiring them to install composite decking?

Ask whether they follow the manufacturer's specific joist spacing and fastener requirements for the board being installed, since generic wood-deck framing specs don't always apply to composite. Ask how they handle ledger flashing where the deck meets the house, since that's the most common source of long-term water damage. Also ask for proof of licensing, insurance, and whether they'll pull the required permit rather than leaving that to you.

What brands of composite decking do you typically work with?

We install capped composite products from established manufacturers such as Trex, TimberTech, and Fiberon, chosen based on the homeowner's budget, color preference, and how the board's warranty and cap technology fit the specific site conditions. We don't install uncapped or off-brand composite because the outer cap layer is what actually protects the core from moisture and salt air over time. The right choice depends on the project, so we walk through options during the estimate rather than defaulting to one line.

Does composite decking need to be sealed, stained, or specially treated?

No — capped composite decking doesn't need sealing, staining, or annual refinishing the way wood does, since the protective cap layer handles moisture and UV exposure. It still benefits from periodic washing to remove pollen, moss spores, and salt residue, especially on shaded sections of the deck. Skipping cleaning entirely won't damage the board, but it will let surface grime and algae film build up faster.

Does March Point's proximity to the water change how a deck should be built compared to other parts of Anacortes?

Yes — the salt air and consistent moisture exposure near the water mean hardware and fasteners need to be corrosion-resistant, not standard galvanized, and ledger flashing needs to be done correctly the first time. Shaded, damp areas near tree lines also need extra attention to drainage and airflow underneath the deck to keep moss from establishing. It's not a different decking material so much as a stricter standard for the structural details underneath it.

Composite Decking for March Point Homes in Anacortes, WA

Decking Built for March Point's Specific Conditions

March Point sits close enough to the water that homes here deal with a different set of conditions than a deck going in further inland in Skagit County. Salt-laden air off the bay, driving rain that comes in sideways during fall and winter storms, and a moss and algae season that can run half the year all put real stress on outdoor living spaces. A deck built to a generic spec sheet without accounting for this environment tends to show problems early — soft spots at the ledger, green film on walking surfaces, corroded hardware, or boards that cup and gap faster than the warranty paperwork implies.

Composite decking, installed correctly for this climate, holds up far better than most alternatives. But "composite decking" covers a wide range of products and installation approaches, and the difference between a deck that looks good for two years and one that performs for two decades usually comes down to details most homeowners never see: substructure spacing, flashing at the house, fastener selection, and drainage planning underneath the boards.

What Correct Composite Decking Installation Actually Involves

The Substructure Matters More Than the Boards

Composite decking is only as good as what it's fastened to. In a wet marine climate, joists and beams need pressure-treated lumber rated for ground contact where applicable, joist tape or a capillary break to keep moisture out of fastener penetrations, and spacing that matches the manufacturer's spec for the specific board profile being used — not a generic 16-inch layout applied to every job. Composite boards flex and expand differently than wood, and undersized joist spacing is one of the most common causes of bounce, sag, and premature fastener failure we see on decks that weren't built for this material specifically.

Ledger Attachment and Flashing

Where a deck attaches to the house is the single most important detail on the entire structure, and it's also the detail most likely to be rushed. Proper ledger flashing — installed so water is directed out and away from the wall assembly, not just caulked and hoped for — is non-negotiable in an area that sees the volume of driving rain Anacortes gets. A poorly flashed ledger doesn't fail the day it's installed; it fails two or three winters later, and by then the damage is often inside the wall, not just at the deck.

Fasteners and Hardware

Salt air accelerates corrosion on standard hardware. Structural connectors, ledger bolts, and joist hangers should be stainless steel or a coating rated for coastal exposure, not the cheapest galvanized option on the shelf. Hidden fastener systems for the decking surface itself should also be matched to the specific board — composite boards vary in groove profile, and using the wrong clip system is a common source of squeaks, loosening, and uneven board spacing over time.

Choosing the Right Composite Board for a Bay-Adjacent Climate

Not all composite decking is built the same way, and the differences matter more here than they would in a dry climate. The table below breaks down the main categories homeowners in this area typically choose between.

Decking Type	Moisture Behavior	Moss/Algae Resistance	Typical Upkeep
Capped composite (composite core with a protective outer shell)	Very low water absorption; core is shielded from direct moisture contact	Good — smooth capped surface sheds spores more easily than open-cell material	Occasional wash; no staining or sealing
Uncapped composite	Higher water absorption at the surface over time	Fair — more prone to surface staining and moss anchoring in humid, shaded areas	Periodic cleaning with a composite-safe cleaner
Pressure-treated wood	Absorbs and releases moisture constantly; prone to swelling, checking, and warping	Poor — organic surface is a natural moss and algae host	Annual sanding, staining, or sealing
PVC decking (no wood fiber content)	Essentially impervious to moisture	Very good — nothing organic in the material for growth to anchor to	Occasional wash; higher material cost

For most March Point homes, capped composite hits the right balance of upfront cost, long-term maintenance, and performance against moss and moisture. We install capped composite boards from established manufacturers rather than uncapped or off-brand product, because the outer shell is what actually does the work of keeping salt air and standing moisture away from the core material over the life of the deck.

Color and Board Selection Considerations

Darker composite boards absorb more heat, which can be pleasant on a cool Skagit County evening but also accelerates any surface expansion at board ends if gapping wasn't set correctly during install. Lighter and mid-tone colors tend to show less contrast if any pollen, moss spore, or salt residue settles on the surface between cleanings — a minor point, but one worth discussing before finalizing a color choice for a deck that will sit close to open water and tree cover.

Moss, Algae, and Drainage: Designing a Deck That Sheds Water

Moss doesn't grow on decking because the material is defective — it grows because moisture and organic debris are sitting somewhere long enough to let it establish. Good deck design fights this at the structural level, not just with surface cleaning:

Board spacing set correctly for drainage and for the specific composite product's expansion rate
Joist layout that avoids low spots where water and debris can pool underneath the deck
Picture-frame or border boards installed with attention to end-grain sealing at cut edges
Under-deck airflow preserved rather than boxed in tightly, so the substructure can dry out between storms
Gutters or drip edges positioned so roof runoff isn't dumping directly onto the deck surface

Shaded areas under large evergreens common to this part of Skagit County are worth flagging during the design phase — a deck section that stays damp and shaded most of the day will need a slightly different drainage and cleaning plan than one in full sun.

Our Installation Process

On-site assessment of the attachment point, grade, drainage path, and existing structure (if replacing an old deck)
Confirming board selection, color, and layout based on sun exposure, shade patterns, and how the space will actually be used
Structural plan covering joist spacing, footing depth, and ledger flashing detail specific to the home
Permit filing where required for the scope of work
Demolition and disposal of the old structure, if applicable
Framing, flashing, and structural inspection before any decking goes down
Composite board installation with manufacturer-specified fastener systems
Final walkthrough covering maintenance expectations and warranty paperwork

Maintenance Expectations for Composite Decking Here

Composite decking is lower-maintenance than wood, but "low-maintenance" doesn't mean "no maintenance," especially with a real moss season to plan around. A simple seasonal routine keeps a properly installed deck performing for its full expected lifespan:

Sweep debris — leaves, needles, pollen — off the surface regularly rather than letting it sit through wet weeks
Rinse the deck a few times a year with a hose and a soft-bristle broom; pressure wash only at low PSI and per manufacturer guidance
Use a composite-safe cleaner for any moss or algae film rather than harsh chemicals that can dull the cap layer
Check under-deck airflow paths annually to make sure planters, storage, or added skirting haven't blocked ventilation
Inspect ledger flashing and fastener points once a year, particularly after the first heavy storms of the season

Permits and Local Considerations

Deck projects in and around Anacortes typically require a building permit once the structure exceeds a certain height or size, and homes closer to the water may have additional setback or critical-area considerations depending on proximity to the shoreline. We handle permit filing as part of the project scope so homeowners aren't left navigating Skagit County or City of Anacortes requirements on their own. Every property is slightly different, which is exactly why a site visit — not a phone estimate — is the right way to scope a deck project in this area.

Why Hire a Crew That Already Works in March Point

A contractor who only occasionally works this close to the water can miss things that aren't obvious until a few winters in — how much salt exposure a west-facing deck actually gets, which shaded corners need extra drainage attention, or how quickly moss re-establishes on a poorly ventilated substructure. We've built and repaired decks throughout the Anacortes area long enough to know which details matter here and which generic installation shortcuts simply don't hold up. That local pattern recognition is worth more than any single product spec sheet.

If you're planning a new composite deck or replacing an aging one in March Point, we're happy to take a look and put together a straightforward, no-pressure estimate — just fill out the form below and we'll go from there.