How is building a deck different from re-siding a wall, and why does a siding contractor doing decks matter?

Both are fundamentally about controlling water at a seam — a deck's ledger board is essentially another wall penetration. A crew that installs siding daily understands flashing and drainage planes in a way a framing-only deck crew may not, which shows up most at the ledger-to-house connection.

What should I check before hiring a contractor for a composite deck install?

Ask specifically how they'll handle the ledger board flashing, what fastener grade they use, and whether the permit is included in the quote. Also confirm they're pulling a permit at all — unpermitted deck work can complicate a home sale later.

Do all composite decking brands perform the same way?

No. Capped composite boards resist moisture and staining significantly better than uncapped composite, which matters more in a damp, mossy climate. Warranty terms, fade resistance, and stain resistance also vary by manufacturer, so it's worth comparing the actual product specs, not just the price per square foot.

What's the difference between hidden fastener systems and face-screwed composite boards?

Hidden fastener clip systems attach boards from the side, leaving no screw heads visible on the surface, which most homeowners prefer for appearance. Face-screwing is simpler and sometimes used for structural reasons like stair treads, but it leaves visible fasteners and small penetration points in the board's cap layer.

Does a deck in the Conway area need special consideration for moss and algae compared to a deck elsewhere in Skagit County?

Shaded or low-airflow decks near the damp river-bottom areas around Conway tend to stay wet longer after rain, which accelerates moss and algae growth on any decking surface. Composite handles this far better than wood since it won't rot, but it still needs periodic washing to keep growth from taking hold, especially on north-facing sections.

Composite Decking in Conway, WA | Anacortes Local Crew

Composite Decking Built for the Conway Stretch of Skagit County

Conway sits in the lowland part of Skagit County, close enough to the water and the river bottoms that homes here deal with a damp, mossy microclimate most of the year. If you're weighing composite decking for a home in this area, the material choice matters less than most homeowners think — what matters more is how the deck is built to shed water, resist moss, and tie into your house without creating a rot problem at the wall. That's the part we focus on, and it's the part a lot of deck-only crews skip past.

We're a siding and exterior crew based in Anacortes, and decks are a natural extension of that work — the same principles that keep water out of a wall (flashing, drainage planes, proper fastening) are exactly what keep a deck's ledger board from rotting into your rim joist. We already work this stretch of Skagit County regularly, so we know what the marine air and long wet season actually do to a structure over time, not just what a spec sheet says.

What Conway's Climate Actually Does to a Deck

A few specific conditions show up again and again on decks in this area:

Salt-tinged marine air. Being close to Puget Sound and the Skagit River delta means metal fasteners, brackets, and railing hardware corrode faster here than they would inland. Fastener grade matters more than most homeowners realize.
Driving rain, not just steady rain. Wind-driven rain off the water pushes moisture sideways into ledger connections and under railing posts, not just straight down onto the deck surface.
A long moss and algae season. Shaded decks, north-facing decks, and decks under tree cover stay damp for months at a time, which is exactly the environment moss and mildew need to take hold on any decking surface, composite included.
Low, humid ground air near the river bottoms. Homes closer to the Skagit's lowland areas often see less airflow under the deck, which slows drying time after every rain event.

None of this means composite decking is a bad fit — it's actually a strong fit, because it doesn't absorb water, swell, splinter, or rot the way a wood deck board eventually will. But it doesn't mean the deck can be built casually either. The framing, flashing, and drainage decisions underneath the boards are what determine whether the deck holds up in this climate or starts causing problems in five to ten years.

Composite vs. Other Decking Materials, Honestly

We'll lay out the real trade-offs rather than push one product. Every material has a maintenance burden — it just shows up differently.

Material	Moisture behavior in this climate	Maintenance burden	Typical lifespan
Composite (capped)	Doesn't absorb water or swell; resists rot at the board itself	Occasional wash to keep moss/algae from staining the surface	25–30+ years
Composite (uncapped)	Some moisture absorption at cut edges; more prone to surface mold in shade	Regular cleaning; edge sealing at cuts recommended	15–25 years
Pressure-treated wood	Absorbs and releases moisture constantly; prone to checking and cupping	Annual cleaning, periodic staining/sealing	10–15 years before major repair
Cedar	Naturally moisture-resistant but still a wood product; grays and softens over time	Regular sealing to hold color and resist rot	15–20 years
PVC	Fully impervious to moisture; can look less natural	Low; occasional wash	25–30+ years

For a Conway property dealing with sustained dampness and moss pressure, a capped composite board is usually the best balance of low maintenance and long-term performance. Uncapped composite is a lower upfront cost but does more work to keep clean over the years in a climate like this.

The Part That Actually Fails First: The House Connection

Almost every deck failure we've diagnosed didn't start with the decking material — it started at the ledger board, where the deck attaches to the house. This is the seam between two systems (the deck structure and your exterior wall), and it's the single most water-vulnerable point on the whole build.

What a correct ledger connection requires

Removing siding at the connection point rather than fastening the ledger over it, so the ledger sits directly against the sheathing
Proper flashing that directs water out and over the ledger, not behind it
A continuous drainage gap or standoff hardware so the ledger isn't sitting flush and trapping moisture against the wall
Corrosion-resistant structural fasteners rated for the moisture and salt exposure in this area
Flashing details that integrate with your existing weather-resistive barrier instead of just caulking over the gap

This is where being a siding crew first actually matters. We're used to thinking about a wall as a water-management system — how the weather barrier, flashing, and cladding all work together to move water down and out. A deck-only company that doesn't do siding work day to day is more likely to treat the ledger as a fastening problem instead of a water problem, and that's how you end up with hidden rot at the rim joist five or ten years down the road, long after the deck itself looks fine.

What's Underneath Matters as Much as the Boards on Top

A composite deck surface can look flawless while the substructure underneath is doing all the wrong things. In a wet, mossy climate like Conway's, we pay close attention to:

Framing and drainage

Joists should be protected with joist tape or a comparable barrier so fasteners don't create a path for water into the wood, and framing should be spaced and pitched to actually shed water rather than pool it.

Ground clearance and airflow

Low decks close to grade, especially near the damp, low-lying ground common closer to the river bottoms, need enough clearance and ventilation underneath to dry out between rain events. Without it, the framing stays wet for weeks at a time even if the surface boards never do.

Board spacing and fastening

Composite boards still need correct gapping for expansion and drainage, and hidden fastener systems need to be installed to the manufacturer's exact spec — over-tightened or misaligned clips are a common cause of squeaking, buckling, or gapping later.

Our Process for a Conway Composite Deck

On-site assessment. We look at your existing structure (if replacing a deck), the ledger connection, grade and drainage around the footprint, and sun/shade exposure that will affect moss growth.
Design and material selection. We walk through composite board options, railing systems, and layout based on how you actually use the space, not just what looks good on day one.
Permitting. Deck work in Skagit County typically requires a permit depending on size and height — we handle that process rather than leaving it to you.
Demo and structural work. Removal of any failing deck, correction of framing and ledger issues, and installation of proper flashing at the house connection.
Decking, railing, and finish work. Composite board installation, hidden fastener systems, railing, and any stairs or lighting.
Final walkthrough. We go over maintenance expectations specific to your deck's sun exposure and layout before we consider the job done.

What Composite Still Needs From You in This Climate

Composite decking is genuinely low-maintenance compared to wood, but "low-maintenance" isn't "no-maintenance," especially with a long moss season working against you.

Sweep debris and organic buildup off the deck regularly, especially in fall and winter under tree cover
Wash the surface once or twice a year with a soft-bristle brush and a composite-safe cleaner to prevent moss and algae from taking hold
Keep gutters and downspouts near the deck clear so runoff isn't dumping directly onto or under the deck
Check railing posts and fasteners periodically for corrosion, especially if the deck faces open water or prevailing wind
Avoid pressure washing at close range or high pressure, which can damage the cap layer on composite boards

What a Deck Like This Typically Costs

Every project is different once you factor in size, height, railing style, and stairs, but these are the general cost drivers homeowners should understand before getting quotes:

Factor	Why it moves the price
Deck height and footings	Taller decks need more substantial framing, footings, and often guardrails, which adds labor and material
Ledger and flashing complexity	Removing and re-flashing siding at the connection point takes more time than a simple surface-mount, but it's the correct method
Board tier (capped vs. uncapped composite)	Capped boards cost more upfront but need less maintenance and hold up better to moss and moisture
Railing system	Composite or metal railing systems vary widely in cost depending on style and code requirements
Site access and demo	Removing an existing deck, especially one with hidden rot, can add unplanned labor

We'll always give you a clear, itemized estimate before work starts — no vague allowances that turn into surprises later.

Why It Matters That We Already Work in This Area

A crew that only shows up in Conway occasionally is guessing at conditions a local crew already knows firsthand — how much shade a given lot gets through the wet months, how fast moss establishes on a north-facing surface here, and what the marine air does to standard hardware over a few winters. We work throughout the Anacortes and Skagit County area regularly, and that familiarity shapes real decisions: fastener grade, flashing detail, and how much ventilation a low deck actually needs to survive this specific climate rather than a generic one.

Questions worth asking any contractor bidding your deck

Will you remove the siding at the ledger board, or fasten over it?
What flashing method will you use at the house connection?
Is joist tape or an equivalent barrier included on the framing?
What fastener grade are you using for hardware and railing posts?
Is the permit included in your quote, or handled separately?
What's the manufacturer's warranty on the specific composite board you're quoting?

If a bid can't answer these clearly, it's worth a second opinion before signing anything.

Get a Straightforward Estimate

If you're weighing a new composite deck or replacing one that's showing rot at the house connection, we're happy to take a look and walk you through what your specific lot and layout actually need. The estimate is free, there's no pressure, and you'll get a straight answer about what the job really involves — just fill out the form below.