Anacortes Siding Board & Batten Siding for March Point Homes
March Point sits out on the water side of Anacortes, in Skagit County, which means homes here take a different kind of weather beating than houses even a few miles inland. Salt-laden air off Fidalgo Bay, wind-driven rain that hits walls sideways instead of straight down, and a moss season that can run eight or nine months out of the year all work against exterior siding here. Board and batten is a popular choice in this area because of its clean, vertical-line look on waterfront and semi-rural properties, but the style only holds up if it's built and installed with this specific climate in mind.
This page covers what board and batten siding needs to hold up in March Point, what correct installation actually looks like, and why the material you choose matters as much as the crew you hire.
Why Board & Batten Suits This Part of Skagit County
The Look
Board and batten uses wide vertical boards with narrow strips (battens) covering the seams between them. It reads as more rustic or modern-farmhouse than lap siding, and it pairs well with the mix of shoreline cabins, newer builds, and larger rural-lot homes you see around March Point and the surrounding Anacortes area. A lot of homeowners choose it specifically because the strong vertical lines look good against water views and open sky.
The Function
Beyond looks, the vertical board-and-batten profile can shed water differently than horizontal lap siding. Water runs down the face of the boards rather than pooling on overlapping horizontal edges, which matters in an area that sees long stretches of steady, wind-driven rain. But that only works to your advantage if the boards, battens, and the water-resistive barrier behind them are installed correctly — done wrong, board and batten can trap moisture behind the battens just as easily as it sheds it in front.
What Salt Air, Rain, and Moss Do to Siding Over Time
Three regional factors drive almost every siding problem we see out this way:
- Salt air: Airborne salt from the bay accelerates corrosion on fasteners, flashing, and any metal trim, and it degrades cheap paint and coatings faster than inland exposure would.
- Driving rain: Wind off the water pushes rain sideways into wall assemblies, which stresses every seam, joint, and batten edge — the parts of board and batten siding that are most vulnerable if not detailed correctly.
- Moss season: Skagit County's damp, mild winters and shaded lots create long moss and algae seasons. Moss holds moisture against the siding surface, and on softer or less stable materials that constant dampness leads to swelling, staining, and eventual rot.
Individually, each of these is manageable. Combined, over years, they're what separates siding that still looks sharp at year fifteen from siding that's cupping, staining, or rotting at year five.
Why We Install Only James Hardie Fiber Cement
We standardized on James Hardie fiber cement siding for every job we take on, including board and batten, and we don't install vinyl, LP SmartSide, Cemplank, Allura, primed spruce, or cedar. That's not a marketing position — it's a decision built around exactly the conditions March Point homes deal with.
Fiber cement is non-combustible and dimensionally stable, meaning it doesn't swell, warp, or cup the way wood-based or engineered-wood products can when they take on repeated moisture. Hardie's ColorPlus factory finish is baked on under controlled conditions rather than field-painted, which gives it better adhesion and fade resistance against salt air and UV than a job-site paint job typically achieves. And Hardie's HZ5 product line is engineered specifically for wetter, harsher climates like the Pacific Northwest coast — which is the reason it's the line we spec for board and batten work in this area.
What This Means in Practice
Choosing Hardie for board and batten isn't just about the boards themselves. It affects the fasteners we use, how we flash the top of each board, how we back-prime cut edges, and how we space battens — all details that matter more in a wind-driven-rain environment than they would somewhere drier.
What a Correct Board & Batten Installation Involves
Board and batten looks simple from the street, but it has more seams and fastening points than lap siding, which means more places for water to find a way in in if it's built wrong. A correct installation includes:
| Component | Why It Matters in March Point's Climate |
|---|---|
| Weather-resistive barrier | Serves as the last line of defense if wind-driven rain gets past the siding face; must be continuous and properly lapped |
| Rainscreen or furring strips | Creates a drainage gap behind the boards so any moisture that gets behind the siding can drain and dry instead of sitting against the sheathing |
| Corrosion-resistant fasteners | Standard fasteners can corrode faster near salt air, leading to streaking and eventual fastener failure |
| Flashing at all horizontal transitions | Prevents water intrusion at windows, doors, and roof-to-wall junctions, which are the most common failure points on any siding job |
| Batten spacing and fastening pattern | Uneven spacing or improper fastening can cause boards to telegraph movement or gap over time |
| Factory-finished ColorPlus coating | Reduces the field-painting burden and holds color and sheen longer under UV and salt exposure than site-applied paint |
Skipping or shortcutting any one of these doesn't usually show up as a problem in year one. It shows up in year five or six, as staining, gapping, or soft spots — long after the crew that installed it has moved on.
Board & Batten Material Options Compared
Homeowners in March Point sometimes come to us already comparing quotes that spec a different material. Here's a straightforward look at how the common options stack up for this climate specifically:
| Material | Moisture Behavior in a Marine Climate | Finish Durability | Long-Term Maintenance |
|---|---|---|---|
| James Hardie fiber cement | Dimensionally stable; engineered HZ5 line for wet climates | Factory ColorPlus finish holds color well against salt air and UV | Low — occasional cleaning, no repainting cycle on ColorPlus finishes |
| Vinyl | Can warp or distort with temperature swings; seams can allow water behind panels | Color is baked into the material but can fade and become brittle over time | Low upfront, but damaged panels are hard to color-match years later |
| LP SmartSide (engineered wood) | Wood-based core is more vulnerable to swelling if moisture gets past the finish | Field or factory finish, but edge and cut exposure is a known weak point | Moderate — edge sealing and caulking need regular attention |
| Cedar or primed spruce | Natural wood; absorbs moisture readily without diligent maintenance | Requires staining or painting on a recurring cycle | Highest — repainting/staining, moss and rot monitoring, edge sealing |
Every one of these materials has a place somewhere. Our position is simply that for the moisture load and salt exposure this specific area sees, fiber cement gives homeowners the best combination of appearance, stability, and low long-term maintenance.
Our Process, Start to Finish
- Free on-site estimate: We walk the exterior, check existing siding and sheathing condition, and talk through board width and batten spacing options.
- Detailed proposal: You get a clear scope covering materials, flashing details, and drainage plane approach — no vague line items.
- Prep and removal: Old siding comes off, and we inspect sheathing for any hidden moisture damage before anything new goes up.
- Weather barrier and drainage plane: Installed and detailed at every window, door, and transition before a single board goes on.
- Board and batten installation: Hardie boards and battens installed to manufacturer spec, with corrosion-resistant fasteners and proper flashing throughout.
- Final walkthrough: We review the finished job with you and confirm everything matches what was scoped.
Maintenance Checklist for Board & Batten Homes in This Area
Fiber cement is low-maintenance, not no-maintenance. A short annual routine goes a long way against moss season and salt air:
- Rinse siding annually to remove salt residue and airborne grime, especially on walls facing the water
- Check for moss or algae buildup in shaded, north-facing, or tree-covered sections and remove it gently before it holds moisture against the surface
- Inspect caulking around windows, doors, and trim yearly and re-caulk any cracked or separated joints
- Walk the foundation line after major storms to check for staining or gapping at the bottom row of boards
- Keep gutters clear so overflow doesn't run directly down wall sections
- Trim back vegetation and tree cover that keeps sections of siding shaded and damp for extended periods
Why Hiring a Crew That Already Works in March Point Matters
Siding installation isn't identical everywhere. A crew that mostly works inland jobs may not automatically account for the added wind-driven rain exposure or salt air that shoreline properties around Anacortes deal with. Working regularly in this specific area means we're used to detailing flashing and drainage planes for this exposure by default, not as an afterthought. It also means we're familiar with the practical realities of scheduling and material logistics for this part of Skagit County, so estimates and timelines reflect what actually happens on a job here rather than a generic assumption.
If you're considering board and batten siding for a home in March Point, we're happy to take a look and talk through what a correct installation would involve for your specific property. Reach out for a free, no-pressure estimate using the form below.